Boiled cabbage, its name is not obvious, it is just plain.
When it comes to boiled cabbage, we have to mention the creator of this dish, Huang Jinglin, a famous Sichuan-style "Xianpin" chef.
Huang Jinglin, a native of the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, was a famous gourmet scholar with a wealth of knowledge.
He likes poetry, calligraphy, and is good at couplets. He wears a genuine royal chef with a bright blue top of the fourth grade of the Qing Dynasty. He is known as "a strange man of the contemporary era."
When it comes to cooking skills, he is truly the founder of the sect.
The "Old Chengdu Gong (Aunt's Feast) Restaurant" founded by Mr. Huang Jinglin was famous before the catastrophe.
Even Chiang Kai-shek once arranged a four-table banquet in his mansion. After the meal, he was so surprised that heaven and earth were full of praises, so he ordered four tables to be cooked the next day. Unexpectedly, the stubborn old Mr. Huang Jinglin refused.
"The rule of booking a table is to submit it 3 days in advance, so it may be difficult to handle."
Chiang had no choice but to wait three more days. This was a joke among the locals, who said, "You can dominate the world, but you can't join the queue even if you are trying to make a living."
When Huang Jinglin passed away, Chiang was very sorry and personally sent him a banner, saying,
"The uncrowned king!"
Since then, the public restaurant has won numerous honors.
For example, when the Domestic Trade Bureau personally reviewed "Famous Chinese Dishes".
There are a total of more than 3,500 famous dishes in the 17 major cuisines. Gongguan alone has five exclusive dishes. You can see them all at a glance. From this, you can know how excellent the dishes in Gongguan are.
(If these are not enough for many readers to intuitively understand what Mr. Huang was worth at that time, then this article will give another example.)
There is a dish in Huang Jinglin's mansion called soft fried pancake.
Most people may have never even heard of this dish. The raw material is pig intestines that are not available on the table. Naturally, they cannot be sold at a good price. However, it is the favorite of Xu Beihong, the master of traditional Chinese painting. He must order this dish every time he goes to the mansion. .
Not only did Huang Jinglin not dislike it, he followed the principle of "Master Zhuan Yiduo is my master" and improved this dish before serving it to guests.
Xu Beihong was very grateful. He splashed ink on the spot and presented a painting of a galloping horse to express his gratitude, which instantly caused a sensation in the art world.
(I don’t dare to think about Xu Beihong’s Ma Qi Baishi’s shrimp. Maybe this is the boss.)
Besides, Huang Jinglin served in Guanglu Temple in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and created many delicacies for the Qing imperial court.
Among these dishes, "Zhang Tea Duck" was loved by Lafayette for its unique tea aroma and was designated as a royal meal for the palace. It is also probably the first royal meal for the palace in Sichuan cuisine.
Whenever Lafayette entertains foreign envoys, he must order this dish.
(This is the chapter with the most parentheses. It only talks about the dishes and nothing else. Thank you for your cooperation. All illegal comments will be deleted.)
Yes, "Zhang Tea Duck", not "Zhang Tea Duck" as it is mistakenly written now.
In fact, this dish is not smoked with camphor leaves, but with young Zhangzhou tea leaves, which is why this delicious food is so delicious.
Because Huang Jinglin was highly appreciated by Lafayette, he received a fourth-grade crown and was admitted to the imperial dining room.
But the competition in the imperial dining room is equally fierce, with open and covert fire and smoke coming and going, which is quite inconsistent with the upright and upright character of Mr. Huang Jinglin.
In the Qing Dynasty, the main dishes in the palace cuisine were Huaiyang cuisine that was "harmonious, refined, fresh and new", and Sichuan cuisine was often derogated as "spicy, vulgar and rustic".
In order to prove the rumor, Huang Jinglin thought hard and tried hundreds and thousands of times, and finally created the best dish of "boiled cabbage". He reduced the complexity to simplicity, which not only established his name as a great master, but also made him a great master. All the royal chefs were shocked and speechless.
Even on the eve of the catastrophe, the status of boiled cabbage as a fine dish for state banquets was still unshakable.
——It’s just that many of the dishes under his name that have attracted everyone’s attention have now become extinct, which is sad.
...
As the saying goes, the accent of Sichuan opera is the soup of Sichuan cuisine.
What this soup means is self-evident.
Any Sichuan chef must have the highest respect for boiled cabbage.
Lin Chou was really "terrified" to make boiled cabbage, the most important soup in Sichuan cuisine.
Without him, the aura and glory attached to this dish alone can make any chef breathless.
Lin Chou took a deep breath and put on her apron.
The labels for boiled cabbage are "most complex" and "most simple", and its preparation is outrageously complicated.
Take ham, ham, three-year-old hen, ribs, scallops, and clean lean pork, put them into a five-cup pot of boiling water and blanch the meat to remove blood, water, and impurities.
Take out the ice water and wash it, then add the five raw materials to another pot of water, add cooking wine, ginger, and green onions. Boil for fifteen minutes and then add the cooking wine again. Simmer over low heat for three and a half hours. Skim the scum on the surface continuously.
During this time, take the chicken breast and pork butt, peel off the skin, remove the oil and tendons, and beat them separately with an iron rod until they become pureed.
This knock lasted nearly two hours.
The sounds coming from the kitchen made the girls who were tasting other dishes curious.
"What are you doing?"
"Do you want to play drums..."
Pound the minced pork and chicken breasts into two large bowls respectively, add water and beat until pureed and set aside.
Wait for the soup on the pot to simmer for three and a half hours. Remove the ham, old hen, ribs, scallops, pork, green onions and ginger and discard them, leaving only the broth.
Set the soup pot to medium heat, and when it boils and the water starts to make a splash, pour one-third of the minced pork into the pot, and stir gently clockwise with a large slotted spoon, so that the soup in the pot becomes a vortex.
When the soup pot is cooking for the second time, use a large colander to remove all the cooked minced meat and discard it.
Sichuan chefs vividly call this step "sweeping the soup".
The soup stock is stewed with five raw materials, leaving many impurities in it. These impurities will not only affect the taste but also make the color of the soup mixed.
Therefore, the step of sweeping the soup is essential.
You also need to work carefully and not tepidly.
The fiber of pork meat is slightly thicker. When it is put into the soup and spreads out and matures, it is like a dense network, which absorbs impurities and some fats and brings them out.
You have to use the same method to sweep the pork minced soup three times in total. After three times of sweeping the soup, the pot of broth will be much clearer and reddish and slightly yellow in color.
But that's not all. The minced chicken that has been pureed with water is divided into three portions. This pot of broth also needs to be swept back and forth with chicken breast meat.
Chicken breast meat is tender and almost tasteless, and it has a stronger ability to absorb finer impurities, oils, etc.
Sweeping the chicken breast into the soup once has an immediate effect. It can immediately remove most of the myoglobin remaining in the soup when the fat and pork minced meat are swept into the soup.
After three times, the soup stock has turned orange-yellow, transparent and clear.
The minced chicken breast that has been swept into the soup needs to contribute the remaining heat for the last time. Wrap the minced chicken breast that has been swept into the soup three times with layers of fine gauze, drain the water until it is half dry, and put it into the soup pot again.
At this time, turn to low heat and simmer for forty minutes.
This step is called "drunk soup".
After forty minutes, take out the gauze bag and discard it.
The soup stock at this time can be called a pot of "top soup".
